Days 12-15
Before catching our overnight train to Agra we went to a performance of Rajasthani culture in Udapuir. It consisted of music and dancing with the various outfits from the difference areas of Rajasthan. There was also a performance from a puppeteer but the highlight came at the end when one of the ladies finished the show with unbelievable display of dancing while balancing pots on her head. At the climax she had a total of 6 pots on her head. Which were taller (and probably heavier!) than herself! It was nice way to end our stay in Udapuir as it was a relaxed and enjoyable place.
We could only get 3rd class AC coach to Agra, which actually isn't that much worse than 2nd class AC. It has an extra bunk per seat and the beds are a little smaller and consequently a fitful nights sleep for me, however my wife slept soundly. We awoke to a much greener environment than Rajasthan. Crops seemed to be grown a lot more consistently in the countryside. I could only recognise rice and maize but I am pretty sure than there was also millet among others. As Agra shanty towns started to meet us we were treated to our first sight of that most Indian of stereotypes, public defecation. There was at least 4 guys squatting down having a dump on the track next to our train. One fully grown man was facing the train and giving us a full frontal as he relieved himself. I had known that we would see this in India but was still shocked, not so much at the act itself but more how unashamed this gentleman was. Although after thinking about it, he was going to have to give a full frontal to someone and he may as well give it to a trainload of passengers, most of whom he would never see again as opposed to facing the shanty town where he lived with his friends and family. Some of whom were sitting only a few metres away playing cards. It was not the last time that Agra would expose us to this, just this morning on the way to this very internet cafe we came across a grassy area by the side of the road where a child was also squatting, we soon realised we were in the walking along an open latrine and there was human feces everywhere.
After checking into our home-stay in Agra we decided we would spend the afternoon checking the route to the Taj Mahal as we planned to be there by sunrise the next day. After following the badly explained route by our host we reached the West gate of the Taj after what seemed like a long time. On deciding that we could go a shorter route back I foolishly made off in the direction I though we should through the side streets to the south of the Taj. These were a complete an utter maze and after 30-40minutes we were now hopelessly lost in a run down residential warren. There was no tourists, tuktuks or land marks to help us out of there. To make matters worse it was getting dark. We asked a few locals for directions, but still we couldn't find a way out. Our stops for directions had now attracted a host of local children in our wake. We started to get worried but kept moving. At last in the distance we seen lights and the noise of a main road, we seen a collection of tuktuks and negotiated a price back to our home-stay, and we could relax. Although I don't think at any point we were in any real danger it was a frightening enough to be playing the Pied Piper through an Indian neighbourhood and I was very cross at myself for letting it happen, especially with my wife there, and it was definitely an experience that I will learn from!
The next day we awoke at dawn and got a taxi to the Taj, after paying 15times the Indian entry fee to the Taj we entered the complex through its entrance gate and there laid out before us was the gardens, paths and pools all leading the way to the Taj Mahal, and what a jaw dropping sight it is. Trying to describe the Taj in words seems futile, words just don't do it justice! I will use one word to describe its effect on us and that is mesmerising. During our 2 and a half hours in the Taj the whole time we could not take our eyes of it. There are other buildings in the complex which are magnificent in their own right but the gleaming marble perfection of the Taj continually draws your eye. There is the word to describe the Taj, perfection, it is without a doubt the worlds most perfect building and easily the prettiest I have seen. The proportions, symmetry and presentation of the Taj are whats makes it this. The complex's other buildings, the gardens all leading up to the marble square (plinth) on which the Taj sits give it the perfect platform to show it off. Then the minarets and domes complement each other perfectly and along with the ridiculous symmetry combine to make the Taj the fantastic building it is. There are many more taller and larger buildings. In terms of architecture it was not ground breaking, Haia Sofia in Istanbul was built over a 1000 years before hand and had a much larger dome. Countless baroque buildings are much more ornate. The Gothic English and French cathedrals are much more dramatic, but none even come close to the perfection of the Taj. After taking countless photographs, wandering through the gardens we had exhausted the Taj but we still wanted to gawk open mouthed as the morning sun made the Taj glisten like a mirage of heaven.
And indeed that is how it was built to be, as an Islamic image of heaven when it was commissioned by the Mogul Emperor Shah Jehan. It is a mausoleum for his favourite wife, Mumtax Muhal who died after giving birth to their 14th child. The Taj itself was completed in 1653, 22 years after her death. Shah Jehan actually ended up there himself after his son Aruangzeb over threw and him and left him imprisoned in the Red Fort across the bend in the Yumua River. He spent out his days staring at the Taj until his death, after which his remains where brought to the Taj to rest alongside his wife.
After returning to the hotel we got breakfast and our helpful host was panicking that we would not be able to get tickets for our next destination Varansi, so we took a tuktuk to the train station. The tourist line was headed up by Indians most of which seemed to be cutting the queue, there were a few other tourist in the line and we decided to apply some Western standards and stop the queue/line jumping and cutting by stopping all the guys who wandered to the front of the queue and told them, "there is a line, go to the back". They seemed to get the message and after a nod they would disappear off to their own queue. In fairness some Indians were eligible to be in the tourist queue such as "freedom fighters", not sure if that would work for Translink! After our policing of the queue it soon got moving and after a dash for a photocopy of my passport we soon had our 2AC tickets for Varanasi and where on our way to the Red Fort.
Agra Fort (or in Agra "the Red Fort") was the seat of the Mughals until Shah Jahn decided to make it Delhi and built another Red Fort there. However officially for his son, Aruangzeb Agra was actually his seat of power but he spent most of his time expanding the Mughal empire. History doesn't paint a great picture of Aruangzeb and after his father took ill he seized power by defeating him in battle. He then proceeded to kill all his brothers and imprisoned his father in the Fort. Maybe the guilt got to him and that's why he spent his time battling all over the Indian subcontinent, it unlikely though as his religious fanaticism meant that he disapproved of his father's alliances and influences from Hinduism. However his campaigning meant that at the height of his powers he reigned over 1/4 of the world's population and collected a tribute of £38,624,680 - in the year 1690! Meanwhile a small battle in some uncivilised corner of Europe was taking place. After his death the empire broke up and the Mughals remained in Delhi until the rebellion of 1857. The fort itself is much more impressive than the equivalent one in Delhi, the marble places, harems and mosques are still in tact. Unlike in Delhi which were destroyed in 1857 by the brutal razing armies of the East India company. However impressive as it is, visitors are constantly drawn to the edge of the fort where you can see out over the river to the domes of the Taj, even from here the sight of the Taj dominates!
Clouds meant that we declined the sunset view of the Taj, but perhaps we will have more luck this evening before our train journey to Varanasi. For those of you that don't know Varanasi is the famous Hindu pilgrim city on the banks of the Ganges where thousands go down the steps of the ghats each morning to bathe in the River. Its not everyone's cup of tea as there is raw sewage and feces in the river along with the pilgrims. I can say now we definitely won't be joining them in that river!
Meanwhile in Indian politics the "Coalgate" controversy rumbles on and the latest I have heard is that Parliament is still stalled with the opposition constantly shouting for Prime Minister Singh to resign. Its highly unlikely that anything worthwhile will be done about it. With the example that it sets at the top level it is hardly surprising the corruption and scamming that takes place in this country. On the home sports front good luck to Galway and Joe Canning when they take on Kilkenny in the All-Ireland hurling final on Sunday. Also after everything I am starting to lean towards Donegal for the football final, as after all they are a neighbouring county of ours and gave us support when Tyrone where in finals, but I still could can be swayed, so let me know if you think I shouldn't! Also looks like Alberto Contrador is back to his rightful place as a grand tour winner after his ridiculous ban, great to see the world's best cyclist where he belongs. Also disappointed about the world's greatest tennis player being knocked out of the American Open "but eh Roger, at least you looked good losing!"
Also I have gotten a few emails of support, thanks a lot guys, and also the comments should be working now, let me know if they still aren't.
Before catching our overnight train to Agra we went to a performance of Rajasthani culture in Udapuir. It consisted of music and dancing with the various outfits from the difference areas of Rajasthan. There was also a performance from a puppeteer but the highlight came at the end when one of the ladies finished the show with unbelievable display of dancing while balancing pots on her head. At the climax she had a total of 6 pots on her head. Which were taller (and probably heavier!) than herself! It was nice way to end our stay in Udapuir as it was a relaxed and enjoyable place.
After checking into our home-stay in Agra we decided we would spend the afternoon checking the route to the Taj Mahal as we planned to be there by sunrise the next day. After following the badly explained route by our host we reached the West gate of the Taj after what seemed like a long time. On deciding that we could go a shorter route back I foolishly made off in the direction I though we should through the side streets to the south of the Taj. These were a complete an utter maze and after 30-40minutes we were now hopelessly lost in a run down residential warren. There was no tourists, tuktuks or land marks to help us out of there. To make matters worse it was getting dark. We asked a few locals for directions, but still we couldn't find a way out. Our stops for directions had now attracted a host of local children in our wake. We started to get worried but kept moving. At last in the distance we seen lights and the noise of a main road, we seen a collection of tuktuks and negotiated a price back to our home-stay, and we could relax. Although I don't think at any point we were in any real danger it was a frightening enough to be playing the Pied Piper through an Indian neighbourhood and I was very cross at myself for letting it happen, especially with my wife there, and it was definitely an experience that I will learn from!
The next day we awoke at dawn and got a taxi to the Taj, after paying 15times the Indian entry fee to the Taj we entered the complex through its entrance gate and there laid out before us was the gardens, paths and pools all leading the way to the Taj Mahal, and what a jaw dropping sight it is. Trying to describe the Taj in words seems futile, words just don't do it justice! I will use one word to describe its effect on us and that is mesmerising. During our 2 and a half hours in the Taj the whole time we could not take our eyes of it. There are other buildings in the complex which are magnificent in their own right but the gleaming marble perfection of the Taj continually draws your eye. There is the word to describe the Taj, perfection, it is without a doubt the worlds most perfect building and easily the prettiest I have seen. The proportions, symmetry and presentation of the Taj are whats makes it this. The complex's other buildings, the gardens all leading up to the marble square (plinth) on which the Taj sits give it the perfect platform to show it off. Then the minarets and domes complement each other perfectly and along with the ridiculous symmetry combine to make the Taj the fantastic building it is. There are many more taller and larger buildings. In terms of architecture it was not ground breaking, Haia Sofia in Istanbul was built over a 1000 years before hand and had a much larger dome. Countless baroque buildings are much more ornate. The Gothic English and French cathedrals are much more dramatic, but none even come close to the perfection of the Taj. After taking countless photographs, wandering through the gardens we had exhausted the Taj but we still wanted to gawk open mouthed as the morning sun made the Taj glisten like a mirage of heaven.
And indeed that is how it was built to be, as an Islamic image of heaven when it was commissioned by the Mogul Emperor Shah Jehan. It is a mausoleum for his favourite wife, Mumtax Muhal who died after giving birth to their 14th child. The Taj itself was completed in 1653, 22 years after her death. Shah Jehan actually ended up there himself after his son Aruangzeb over threw and him and left him imprisoned in the Red Fort across the bend in the Yumua River. He spent out his days staring at the Taj until his death, after which his remains where brought to the Taj to rest alongside his wife.
After returning to the hotel we got breakfast and our helpful host was panicking that we would not be able to get tickets for our next destination Varansi, so we took a tuktuk to the train station. The tourist line was headed up by Indians most of which seemed to be cutting the queue, there were a few other tourist in the line and we decided to apply some Western standards and stop the queue/line jumping and cutting by stopping all the guys who wandered to the front of the queue and told them, "there is a line, go to the back". They seemed to get the message and after a nod they would disappear off to their own queue. In fairness some Indians were eligible to be in the tourist queue such as "freedom fighters", not sure if that would work for Translink! After our policing of the queue it soon got moving and after a dash for a photocopy of my passport we soon had our 2AC tickets for Varanasi and where on our way to the Red Fort.
Agra Fort (or in Agra "the Red Fort") was the seat of the Mughals until Shah Jahn decided to make it Delhi and built another Red Fort there. However officially for his son, Aruangzeb Agra was actually his seat of power but he spent most of his time expanding the Mughal empire. History doesn't paint a great picture of Aruangzeb and after his father took ill he seized power by defeating him in battle. He then proceeded to kill all his brothers and imprisoned his father in the Fort. Maybe the guilt got to him and that's why he spent his time battling all over the Indian subcontinent, it unlikely though as his religious fanaticism meant that he disapproved of his father's alliances and influences from Hinduism. However his campaigning meant that at the height of his powers he reigned over 1/4 of the world's population and collected a tribute of £38,624,680 - in the year 1690! Meanwhile a small battle in some uncivilised corner of Europe was taking place. After his death the empire broke up and the Mughals remained in Delhi until the rebellion of 1857. The fort itself is much more impressive than the equivalent one in Delhi, the marble places, harems and mosques are still in tact. Unlike in Delhi which were destroyed in 1857 by the brutal razing armies of the East India company. However impressive as it is, visitors are constantly drawn to the edge of the fort where you can see out over the river to the domes of the Taj, even from here the sight of the Taj dominates!
Clouds meant that we declined the sunset view of the Taj, but perhaps we will have more luck this evening before our train journey to Varanasi. For those of you that don't know Varanasi is the famous Hindu pilgrim city on the banks of the Ganges where thousands go down the steps of the ghats each morning to bathe in the River. Its not everyone's cup of tea as there is raw sewage and feces in the river along with the pilgrims. I can say now we definitely won't be joining them in that river!
Meanwhile in Indian politics the "Coalgate" controversy rumbles on and the latest I have heard is that Parliament is still stalled with the opposition constantly shouting for Prime Minister Singh to resign. Its highly unlikely that anything worthwhile will be done about it. With the example that it sets at the top level it is hardly surprising the corruption and scamming that takes place in this country. On the home sports front good luck to Galway and Joe Canning when they take on Kilkenny in the All-Ireland hurling final on Sunday. Also after everything I am starting to lean towards Donegal for the football final, as after all they are a neighbouring county of ours and gave us support when Tyrone where in finals, but I still could can be swayed, so let me know if you think I shouldn't! Also looks like Alberto Contrador is back to his rightful place as a grand tour winner after his ridiculous ban, great to see the world's best cyclist where he belongs. Also disappointed about the world's greatest tennis player being knocked out of the American Open "but eh Roger, at least you looked good losing!"
Also I have gotten a few emails of support, thanks a lot guys, and also the comments should be working now, let me know if they still aren't.
I am enjoying reading of your adventures! Sounds like India is full of surprises (good and... Well, interesting). I did t know you two were planning on moving to Southern California! Hopefully we can he together once you're settled. Enjoy the rest of your travels - I know I'll enjoy reading about them. Stay safe!
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